Between the Worlds

Between the Worlds

A man, huddled on a low stool, rhythmically beats a large leather drum. A thick, richly decorated coat flows down his shoulders. The man’s head – hidden under a pointed hat with feathers – sways steadily to the beat. From under the veil of black tassels covering the face, comes an ever faster and louder […]

Read More
Chapter 7 – Bayankhongor, Mongolia

Chapter 7 – Bayankhongor, Mongolia

After a rally crossing over the river in the Khujirt Valley, we finally drive onto a ribbon of asphalt. Initially, its condition is so bad that we dream about returning on off-road paths. In time, however, the situation improves. We can finally enjoy what extends beyond the window. The landscape begins to change significantly. Already […]

Read More
The two faces of Issyk-Kul

The two faces of Issyk-Kul

In Bishkek they told us, there is no point in going to Issyk-Kul at this time of the year. It is already long past the peak season. There is nothing there anymore. But stubborn as we are, in late October, we set off on tour around the second largest mountain and saline lake in the […]

Read More
The Spirit of Buryatia

The Spirit of Buryatia

“Is this your machine?” asks a young policeman, showing a picture of our ambulance on his phone. “Ours”, we answer completely stupefied, “What happened?” “Wrongly parked”, answers the young man and leads us to the ‘crime scene’, where he transfers us to someone of a much higher rank. A dark uniform with flaps full of […]

Read More
Under the dressing of the golden steppe

Under the dressing of the golden steppe

A loud noise wakes us up. Someone bangs mercilessly in the rear door of our camper. Andrzej grabs pepper spray. Terrified, I carefully look outside. It is as bright as during the day. The car bathed in a silvery light of the moon casts a long shadow. In its darkness, there is a contour of […]

Read More
Chapter 6 – Karakorum, Mongolia

Chapter 6 – Karakorum, Mongolia

We are waiting in the queue for tickets to the Buddhist temple of Erdene Zuu. Among the number of locals, we are one of the few foreigners. It automatically makes us the subject of semi-camouflaged glancing, pointing fingers and whispers ended with giggles. Suddenly, one of the co-queuers gathers up all his courage and tries […]

Read More