CHAPTER 16 – YANAR DAG, AZERBAIJAN

CHAPTER 16 – YANAR DAG, AZERBAIJAN

6 AM. A large parking lot by the Baku Bay. Our homebulance sways uncontrollably in powerful gusts of wind. It is still not too bad today. The wind reaches “only” 70 km per hour. Two days earlier, it was over 100. No wonder Baku is called “The Windy City”. We finish our coffee before it […]

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CHAPTER 15 – BAKU, AZERBAIJAN

CHAPTER 15 – BAKU, AZERBAIJAN

Only late at night, we manage to leave the Russia-Azerbaijan border crossing. We still have to drive a few dozen kilometres to reach the country’s capital – Baku. Roads are lacking any street lamps, but the roadworks are plenty. In the darkness, in the maze of roadworks, we manage to lose our way several times. […]

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CHAPTER 14 – THE SILK ROAD, KAZAKHSTAN part II

CHAPTER 14 – THE SILK ROAD, KAZAKHSTAN part II

In the middle of the bare steppe, there is a large square. On the square – mud bricks arranged in the outlines of foundations. These ruins are all that is left of the once-great Otrar. It was here, where the intersections of the main Silk Road routes converged. Today, only wind blows between decayed houses […]

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CHAPTER 13 – THE SILK ROAD, KAZAKHSTAN part I

CHAPTER 13 – THE SILK ROAD, KAZAKHSTAN part I

From Kyrgyzstan, we go back to Kazakhstan in late November. A grey curtain, announcing snowfall covers the sky over Almaty. The temperature drops below zero. The homebulance strongly protests against the cold and barely starts. Instead of running to warmth, however, we head further south – towards the Kazakh part of the Silk Road. The […]

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CHAPTER 12 – BISHKEK, KYRGYZSTAN

CHAPTER 12 – BISHKEK, KYRGYZSTAN

Autumn gilded Bishkek. Golden leaves fall from trees. Golden yarn of sunrays envelops streets, buildings and people. Jackets of Saturday strollers glisten with golden embroidery. Among all the people – he. Very elegant. A black vest on a lilac shirt. A dark tie tied in a large knot. Long hair falls on his shoulders from […]

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Chapter 11 – Almaty, Kazakhstan

Chapter 11 – Almaty, Kazakhstan

We almost give up on Astana (renamed to Nur-Sultan in March 2019). The capital of Kazakhstan, which we reach at night, does not impress us at all. The day brings the sight of grey, large-slab blocks of flats, dilapidated and dull post-Soviet buildings, collapsing pavements. And then we cross the bridge connecting north and south, […]

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