At random, we enter the nearest restaurant Harper’s Restaurant & Lounge and sit at a table right next to the huge open windows. On one side, there is a stunning view of a river bank and the old town. On the other – greens of the nearby grove. Below, runs a river cooling us with water breeze.

Windows lure with a diversity of views. Curiously, I go to one of them and stand nose to nose with an equally curious monkey. Beady eyes set in the tilting to the left and right head, carefully watching my every move. After a while, an animal decides that I do not pose any threat. As if nothing ever happened it goes back to the interrupted meal. Charmed, I cannot peel my eyes off the creature, when with the corner of my eye I catch another movement, in the shrubs at river shore. Bustling, forked tongue tastes the air. Amber eyes carefully watch the area. A dark and massive body of a monitor lizard emerges from the water, only to disappear in the foundation of our restaurant.

A few refreshing beers later we stroll along the Malacca River. A presentational promenade, full of bars and restaurants, extends on both sides of the water channel. Giant murals adorn the walls of almost every building along the way. Rows of pots with fantastically colourful flowers mark the route from one historical monument to another. Tourists take pictures at the big water mill of Malacca Sultanate while families with children stroll leisurely enjoying the relaxed atmosphere.

But only a glance over old vines partition – a second, completely different face of Malacca emerges. A provisional, makeshift barrier separates the tourist bliss from ramshackle huts, channels full of garbage and rats fighting for scraps. A thin veil protects the tourist eyes from the prose of city’s everyday life. It carefully covers the places that are not suitable for postcard photographs. But it is here, in those places that we meet the most friendly people – satisfied with what they have, although they have a little. It is here, where the laughter of children running around, muddy from head to toe sounds the loudest. It is here, where the grandma busy preparing afternoon meal has the kindest smile for us. The entire tourist splendour showcase turns into ruins in a collision with a real heart of Malacca. So carefully concealed.

A Red Dragon’s large body twists over our heads. The gaping, frozen in a silent roar muzzle greets in Malacca’s Chinatown. Another dragon is accompanied by a giant mask of Chinese lion. Big eyes, shaded with feather eyelashes squint at passing pedestrians.

The heart and soul of Chinatown – Jonker Street – vibrates with life. Crowds of people visit shops located on both sided of the street. Sometimes the stall is in an old garage with walls full of makeshift, wooden shelves. Sometimes it takes a form of a neat, newly renovated building with bright white walls. Whatever the looks, you can find here absolutely anything: from the typical souvenirs in the form of magnets, fans, sets of chopsticks, to clothes, DIY tools, spare parts, to caged parrots, rabbits, and other common household pets like iguanas.

Between the shops stand mandatory portable food stalls. On bamboo mats, there are deliciously puffy baos – small buns stuffed with anything you can dream of. The lady-owner, on a makeshift stove, steams another batch of deliciousness carefully closed in round bamboo containers.

“These baos here are with chicken and beef” – smiling vendor invites us to try the goods. “The ones with meat you should get for dinner. And those with red beans leave for a dessert” – she briefly concludes our purchases.

At the end of the street stands a makeshift stage. A small team is busy with cleaning up the remains of a show that has just finished. In plastic chairs in front of the stage, there are still the last spectators who do not at all hurry to disperse. We join them with our ample portions of baos and watch the perpetual motion and the bustling life of the street. In front of the shops, portable stalls on wheels start to appear. Just as their immobilised relatives they offer absolutely anything. Vendors bend over backwards arranging and displaying all the goods. They must make it before dusk. Jonker Street prepares for a weekend night market.