The true face of Iran

The true face of Iran

“Get off!” the man shouts, pulling on our car door handle. “Get off! Get off!” he yells continuously, the only English words in the stream of incomprehensible Farsi. “Get off!” he screams, grabbing a shotgun from the hands of a soldier standing next to him. “Get off!” his saliva spatters the side window of our […]

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Guardian angels with Kalashnikov

Guardian angels with Kalashnikov

A long corridor flooded with cold fluorescent lights. We are sitting on metal chairs attached to the walls. Time after time, armed men in uniforms pass us by. Huddled over laptops open on our laps, we try not to attract anyone’s attention. At the police station in Quetta – the capital of the Pakistani province […]

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CHAPTER 14 – THE SILK ROAD, KAZAKHSTAN part II

CHAPTER 14 – THE SILK ROAD, KAZAKHSTAN part II

In the middle of the bare steppe, there is a large square. On the square – mud bricks arranged in the outlines of foundations. These ruins are all that is left of the once-great Otrar. It was here, where the intersections of the main Silk Road routes converged. Today, only wind blows between decayed houses […]

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CHAPTER 13 – THE SILK ROAD, KAZAKHSTAN part I

CHAPTER 13 – THE SILK ROAD, KAZAKHSTAN part I

From Kyrgyzstan, we go back to Kazakhstan in late November. A grey curtain, announcing snowfall covers the sky over Almaty. The temperature drops below zero. The homebulance strongly protests against the cold and barely starts. Instead of running to warmth, however, we head further south – towards the Kazakh part of the Silk Road. The […]

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CHAPTER 12 – BISHKEK, KYRGYZSTAN

CHAPTER 12 – BISHKEK, KYRGYZSTAN

Autumn gilded Bishkek. Golden leaves fall from trees. Golden yarn of sunrays envelops streets, buildings and people. Jackets of Saturday strollers glisten with golden embroidery. Among all the people – he. Very elegant. A black vest on a lilac shirt. A dark tie tied in a large knot. Long hair falls on his shoulders from […]

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Chapter 11 – Almaty, Kazakhstan

Chapter 11 – Almaty, Kazakhstan

We almost give up on Astana (renamed to Nur-Sultan in March 2019). The capital of Kazakhstan, which we reach at night, does not impress us at all. The day brings the sight of grey, large-slab blocks of flats, dilapidated and dull post-Soviet buildings, collapsing pavements. And then we cross the bridge connecting north and south, […]

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