The true face of Iran

The true face of Iran

“Get off!” the man shouts, pulling on our car door handle. “Get off! Get off!” he yells continuously, the only English words in the stream of incomprehensible Farsi. “Get off!” he screams, grabbing a shotgun from the hands of a soldier standing next to him. “Get off!” his saliva spatters the side window of our […]

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Guardian angels with Kalashnikov

Guardian angels with Kalashnikov

A long corridor flooded with cold fluorescent lights. We are sitting on metal chairs attached to the walls. Time after time, armed men in uniforms pass us by. Huddled over laptops open on our laps, we try not to attract anyone’s attention. At the police station in Quetta – the capital of the Pakistani province […]

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CHAPTER 16 – YANAR DAG, AZERBAIJAN

CHAPTER 16 – YANAR DAG, AZERBAIJAN

6 AM. A large parking lot by the Baku Bay. Our homebulance sways uncontrollably in powerful gusts of wind. It is still not too bad today. The wind reaches “only” 70 km per hour. Two days earlier, it was over 100. No wonder Baku is called “The Windy City”. We finish our coffee before it […]

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CHAPTER 15 – BAKU, AZERBAIJAN

CHAPTER 15 – BAKU, AZERBAIJAN

Only late at night, we manage to leave the Russia-Azerbaijan border crossing. We still have to drive a few dozen kilometres to reach the country’s capital – Baku. Roads are lacking any street lamps, but the roadworks are plenty. In the darkness, in the maze of roadworks, we manage to lose our way several times. […]

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CHAPTER 14 – THE SILK ROAD, KAZAKHSTAN part II

CHAPTER 14 – THE SILK ROAD, KAZAKHSTAN part II

In the middle of the bare steppe, there is a large square. On the square – mud bricks arranged in the outlines of foundations. These ruins are all that is left of the once-great Otrar. It was here, where the intersections of the main Silk Road routes converged. Today, only wind blows between decayed houses […]

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CHAPTER 13 – THE SILK ROAD, KAZAKHSTAN part I

CHAPTER 13 – THE SILK ROAD, KAZAKHSTAN part I

From Kyrgyzstan, we go back to Kazakhstan in late November. A grey curtain, announcing snowfall covers the sky over Almaty. The temperature drops below zero. The homebulance strongly protests against the cold and barely starts. Instead of running to warmth, however, we head further south – towards the Kazakh part of the Silk Road. The […]

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