The true face of Iran

The true face of Iran

“Get off!” the man shouts, pulling on our car door handle. “Get off! Get off!” he yells continuously, the only English words in the stream of incomprehensible Farsi. “Get off!” he screams, grabbing a shotgun from the hands of a soldier standing next to him. “Get off!” his saliva spatters the side window of our […]

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Guardian angels with Kalashnikov

Guardian angels with Kalashnikov

A long corridor flooded with cold fluorescent lights. We are sitting on metal chairs attached to the walls. Time after time, armed men in uniforms pass us by. Huddled over laptops open on our laps, we try not to attract anyone’s attention. At the police station in Quetta – the capital of the Pakistani province […]

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CHAPTER 12 – BISHKEK, KYRGYZSTAN

CHAPTER 12 – BISHKEK, KYRGYZSTAN

Autumn gilded Bishkek. Golden leaves fall from trees. Golden yarn of sunrays envelops streets, buildings and people. Jackets of Saturday strollers glisten with golden embroidery. Among all the people – he. Very elegant. A black vest on a lilac shirt. A dark tie tied in a large knot. Long hair falls on his shoulders from […]

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Chapter 11 – Almaty, Kazakhstan

Chapter 11 – Almaty, Kazakhstan

We almost give up on Astana (renamed to Nur-Sultan in March 2019). The capital of Kazakhstan, which we reach at night, does not impress us at all. The day brings the sight of grey, large-slab blocks of flats, dilapidated and dull post-Soviet buildings, collapsing pavements. And then we cross the bridge connecting north and south, […]

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Chapter 10 – Pavlodar, Kazakhstan

Chapter 10 – Pavlodar, Kazakhstan

From Mongolia, we drive directly onto the Chuysky Trakt. Were it not for the fact that smooth asphalt stretches under our wheels, and the landscape would not indicate that we have already entered Russia. The boundless azure sky stretches above us. The heavy cottonwool of snow-white clouds lies on the rocky mountain slopes with spots […]

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Chapter 9 – Ulgii, Mongolia

Chapter 9 – Ulgii, Mongolia

After all the action of digging out our unfortunate motorhome, we stopped in Mongolian paradise. Over a mountain stream not too wide, not too deep, with a flat and cushy shoreline of a meadow. Above the crystal sash of the stream rise the mountains – mighty, with peaks hidden under snow caps. In the morning, […]

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